The Perfect Day Around Lydford Gorge
My local guide to the best things to do, see and eat around Lydford Gorge and this beautiful corner of West Dartmoor.
Why I love Lydford
I live and work here in Lydford, on the western edge of Dartmoor between Tavistock and Okehampton, and I’m constantly asked by guests where they should explore while they’re here.
The funny thing is, some arrive planning to drive miles across the moor to places they’ve seen in guidebooks, when there’s an extraordinary amount to see and do right here. Within just a couple of miles you can walk through a spectacular wooded gorge, climb onto open moorland, discover waterfalls and ancient history, eat extremely good food, cycle the Granite Way — and, of course, meet some rather friendly alpacas.
So, if you’re planning a visit to Lydford Gorge, here’s how I’d spend the day — plus a few of my favourite alternatives if you’re lucky enough to have another day.
First things first... breakfast?
If you're arriving hungry, there are some very good reasons to get to Lydford early.
Breakfast 8 - 10am
If you fancy sitting down to a proper breakfast before your day begins, the Castle Inn in Lydford is a lovely place to start. It’s a particularly nice choice if you’d rather sit down and ease into the day than grab something on the go.
Opens 9am Mon - Sat
My choice if you want something to take with you. The sausage rolls are enormous and the pasties are genuinely delicious — but go early! Once the walkers and cyclists arrive, the best bits can disappear quickly.
Weekends: 9am–5pm
Another lovely local option for a morning bacon roll and coffee, made even better by the fact that the bacon comes from their own farm.
Opening hours can change seasonally, so it's always worth checking before you set off.
10am — Start the day with some rather friendly alpacas
I may be slightly biased, but I can’t think of a better way to start a day around Lydford Gorge. Lydford Gorge Alpacas is directly opposite the Whitelady Waterfall entrance, so it’s wonderfully easy to combine the two — spend the morning with the boys, then head across the road to explore the Gorge afterwards.
If you fancy getting out onto the moor, our alpaca treks leave directly from the farm for a peaceful two-mile walk across Dartmoor. Groups are deliberately small, with plenty of time to get to know your alpaca’s very individual personality along the way.
If you’d prefer something gentler, our private Alpaca Encounter is an hour of calm, unhurried time with the boys here on the farm. They’re unusually relaxed and affectionate with people; many choose to settle beside guests for strokes and cuddles, and some will even fall asleep on people when they’re particularly relaxed. It’s always on their terms, which is what makes those moments so special.
Both experiences are popular with adults, couples and families, particularly animal lovers looking for a rather special way to spend time with animals on Dartmoor.
Next stop — Lydford Gorge
You don’t have far to travel for the next stop — the Whitelady Waterfall entrance to Lydford Gorge is directly opposite the alpaca farm.
It’s one of the places I always recommend to visitors, but you don’t necessarily need to spend hours walking every path to see the best of it. If you’re short on time, I’d visit the two highlights separately: Whitelady Waterfall at one end and the Devil’s Cauldron at the other, rather than walking the Link Path between them.
And if you love having somewhere beautiful almost to yourself, here's a little local tip: you can head down to Whitelady Waterfall before the visitor facilities open. It's a rather special way to see it before the day gets busy.
Don't miss the bookshop!
At the Devil's Cauldron end you'll also find a surprisingly large second-hand bookshop. It's very easy to wander in for a quick look and emerge considerably later with an armful of books.
Worked up an appetite?
After the alpacas and the Gorge, you've definitely earned lunch. Stay in the heart of Lydford, or take a little detour for something rather different.
The Castle Inn, Lydford - stay local
If you didn't stop here for breakfast, lunch is another good excuse. On a sunny day the beer garden is fabulous, while in autumn and winter it's wonderfully cosy inside. The pizzas are particularly good, there are great gluten-free options, and I'm also rather partial to their cream teas.
Alder Vineyard - make lunch part of the adventure
Fancy going a little further afield? Alder Vineyard is a lovely alternative if you'd rather make lunch a destination in itself. Relax over lunch in the vineyard kitchen, perhaps with a glass of their own Devon wine, and look out for their live music afternoons and other events. If you choose Alder, I'd simply treat the rest of this guide as inspiration and explore Lydford village whenever it best fits your day.
Worth knowing: Opening days and food service can vary, so I always recommend checking before you set off.
Take a wander through historic Lydford
Before heading back onto the moor, take a little time to explore Lydford itself. For such a small village, it has an extraordinary amount of history.
Lydford Castle sits right in the heart of the village and dates back to the medieval period, with the remains of an even earlier Saxon fort nearby. It's free to explore and doesn't take long, making it an easy addition to your day.
Just across the way is St Petroc's Church, a beautiful old Dartmoor church with a history stretching back around a thousand years. Even if historic buildings aren't normally your thing, it's worth stepping inside — and the churchyard is a lovely peaceful place to wander.
The best bit? You can leave the car where it is and explore the castle, church and village on foot.
Finish the day on top of the world
If you've still got a little energy left, head to nearby Brentor and climb up to St Michael de Rupe, the tiny church perched dramatically on top of Brent Tor.
It's a short but steep climb, and the views from the top are extraordinary. On a clear evening you can see across Dartmoor, the Tamar Valley and far beyond — but for me, this is somewhere to come as the day is drawing to a close. Take your time, watch the light change and, if you're lucky, catch a spectacular Dartmoor sunset.
It's also a wonderful spot for photography and, on a clear night, stargazing. Just remember that you'll need to make your way back down afterwards, so come prepared if you're staying after dark.
A church with quite a view
The first church here was built around 1130, on a tor already surrounded by Iron Age earthworks. There are some wonderfully dramatic local legends about how the church came to be built — but I'll let you discover those when you visit.
Finish with dinner at The Dartmoor Inn
After a full day exploring, I'd finish at The Dartmoor Inn. It's just outside Lydford, right on the edge of the moor, and is one of those places that's worth planning into your day rather than leaving to chance.
The food is excellent, with menus that change with the seasons and make good use of local produce. After a day of walking, waterfalls and Dartmoor air, it's a rather lovely place to settle in for the evening.
My tip: Book ahead. It's popular, and it's also worth checking which days they're serving dinner before you plan your visit.
Got another day?
There’s far too much around Lydford to squeeze into just one day. If you’re staying a little longer, here are three very different ways to spend another day exploring this corner of Dartmoor.
A proper Dartmoor adventure
Walk the Western Tors
If you fancy something more adventurous, take on a 7–8 mile hike across the rugged western moor to Great Links Tor, Brat Tor and Alms Tor. It's a moderate to challenging walk through wonderfully wild Dartmoor scenery, with the enormous Widgery Cross perched dramatically on top of Brat Tor.
Allow around 4 hours · 7–8 miles · Moderate–challenging
Finding the car park: It's surprisingly easy to miss! Immediately beside The Dartmoor Inn, look for a little lane with a red post box at the entrance. Head up the lane and you'll reach the large National Park car park.
A hidden Dartmoor gem
Walk to Black Rock Falls
Just a 20-minute walk from the car park, Black Rock Falls is a beautiful little waterfall tucked away on the River Lyd. The pool beneath the cascades is known as the Witch's Pool and makes a wonderful spot for a paddle — or a proper wild-water plunge if that's your thing.
It's a small, peaceful place and at its best when you have it to yourself, so I'd go early or later in the day if you can.
Finding the falls: From the same car park for the Western Tors, head northeast towards Widgery Cross. Just before you cross the River Lyd at the ford, turn right and follow the river downstream. The final descent to the falls is steeper and rocky, so take a little care.
Explore on two wheels
Cycle the Granite Way
For a gentler day, the Granite Way is a mostly flat, traffic-free cycle route following an old railway line through some spectacular West Dartmoor scenery. From Lydford, you can ride for around 11km towards Okehampton, with my favourite highlight being the enormous Lake Viaduct.
Don't have bikes? Hire them instead in Okehampton or Sourton - the 118 Dartmoor Line bus from Lydford will take you right there.
Finding the Granite Way in Lydford: The entrance is surprisingly easy to miss. As you enter Lydford from the Okehampton direction, look for a small roadside lay-by on School Road, just past the old stone wall and before you reach the school. From there, a little gate takes you directly onto the trail.
Why not stay a little longer?
If one day doesn't feel quite enough, you don't actually have to leave. Forda Forge, our little farm stay here at Lydford Gorge Alpacas, sleeps one or two guests in peaceful, beautifully comfortable accommodation right on the farm.
Lydford Gorge is opposite, Dartmoor is just behind us and everything in this guide is within easy reach. You can wake up with the alpacas outside, head straight out onto the moor and come home at the end of the day without spending your holiday driving from one side of Devon to the other.
And because you’re staying on the farm, you’ll naturally see a little more of life here too — whether that’s watching the boys have breakfast, saying hello as you come and go, or simply enjoying some rather unusual neighbours. If you’d like some proper time with the boys, our private Alpaca Encounters and Dartmoor treks can also be booked separately during your stay.
Enjoy my little corner of Dartmoor
I hope this helps you make the most of your time in Lydford. This little corner of West Dartmoor, tucked between Tavistock and Okehampton, has an extraordinary amount packed into just a few miles — and still plenty of quiet places where you can feel as though you have the moor to yourself.
If you do come and explore, perhaps I’ll see you along the way — or, even better, you’ll come and meet the boys while you’re here.